Memories

As I get ready to leave Guam this year in August, I am feeling nostalgic about places I have lived and visited.

I have been so lucky so have had such cool adventures. I thought I would tell you about some of my favorites.

I grew up in Arizona. People think that it’s all desert, and some of it is. However, a lot of Arizona is also forest. It’s a very diverse state.

Jenifer DeLemont
Me with Oak Creek Canyon Behind Me
Jenifer DeLemont
On My Way to Graduation
Jenifer DeLemont, JD DeLemont, Jenifer with one n
In Flagstaff with a fern
Jenifer DeLemont, JD DeLemont
At Havasu Falls inside The Grand Canyon

Then, there was South Korea. I loved it there so much! I got to experience seasons for the first time. I also got to teach cute kids and make lots of friends that I still keep in touch with.

I also learned to read and write Hangul, which is the Korean written language. My spoken Korean is not as good as my Spanish, but I did my best.

South Korea is an amazing country. If anyone is thinking of visiting: I recommend it!

Jenifer DeLemont, JD DeLemont
In Busan in front of the Aquarium
Jenifer DeLemont, JD DeLemont
At EverLand, and Amusement Park in South Korea
Jenifer DeLemont at The Folk Villiage
At the Folk Village in Suwon, South Korea
Jenifer DeLemont
At the Cherry Blossom Festival in Seoul

I also went to Japan and spent some time there. I really liked the Shinto cemeteries, which have clapping sticks to keep the dead company.

I went to a Cherry Blossom Festival, enjoyed the night life, had tea at a traditional tea house, and in general just enjoyed Tokyo. It was a beautiful place to visit, and I hope to go back some day.

Jenifer DeLemont
Uneo Park in Tokyo
Jenifer DeLemont in Japan
In front of a Pagoda in Japan
Jenifer DeLemont
In front of a stone lantern
Jenifer DeLemont
A Shinto Cemetery I visted

France was amazing as well. The food was so good! I know it’s a cliche to say that the food was the best part, but it really was impressive.

I went for Christmas, so I got to see Paris all decked out for the holiday. It was cold, but thankfully there was no snow. I get cold so easily since I am from the desert…

Jenifer DeLemont
Standing in front of the Eiffel Tower
Jenifer DeLemont
In front of Notre Dame
Jenifer DeLemont
Amazing Cheesecake in Paris
Jenifer DeLemont
In front of the Louvre

I also went to England to visit my cousin Stacy. It was really lovely.

Being an American, I guess I think of the U.K. as where most of our culture came from. It certainly has a certain amount of familiarity to it.

The British Museum was a lot of fun, and I tried my first fish and chips after! I also saw all the London Landmarks.

Jenifer DeLemont
Big Ben and the London Eye
Jenifer DeLemont in London
At the British Museum with my cousin Stacy
Jenifer DeLemont
Me with Big Ben
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In front of Westminster Abbey

As for Thailand, I always wanted to go there, because I worked at a Thai restaurant in High School and they made it sound so amazing. I have to say, after 20 years of wanting to see it, I was not disappointed! I got to meet elephants, swim in the ocean, and check out several temples.

I only spent a month backpacking around in Thailand, and it left barely long enough. Definitely plan a long trip if you go!

Jenifer DeLemont
On a waterfall hike outside Chang Mai
Jenifer DeLemont
An orchid stall at the flower market in Bangkok.
Jenifer DeLemont
On the island of Koh Samui.
Jenifer DeLemont
Meeting elephants!

Australia is fabulous! I really fell in love with the land and the people.

I went to visit my friends Melissa and Shari, but I had always wanted to see the country as well. I felt drawn to it because most of Australia is as dry as Arizona. They could also easily rival each other in terms of dangerous animals.

I highly recommend visiting Australia.

Jenifer DeLemont
The Blue Mountains
Jenifer DeLemont
Hiking in the Blue Mountains
Jenifer DeLemont
A blue grouper in the ocean in Sydney.
Jenifer DeLemont
Watson’s Bay in Sydney
Jenifer DeLemont
The opera house
Jenifer DeLemont
In the rain forest in Kuranda
Jenifer DeLemont
On the Great Barrier Reef

I lived in Oregon after South Korea and before Guam.

It is where my family still lives. My mom is in Gresham, which is right outside Portland. And, my aunt is in Hood River. We have our family reunions in Seaside.

I love the Pacific Northwest. Even though I didn’t grow up there, having my family live there makes it feel like home.

Jenifer DeLemont
At the Shakespeare Garden in Portland
Jenifer DeLemont
At the Japanese Gardens in Portland
Jenifer DeLemont
At the lava flats in Oregon
Jenifer DeLemont
At the Oregon Coast Aquarium

Guam has been fabulous.

At first it was a little hard to move to an island. Islands are so small, and it’s a challenge to find anything on island (food and clothes, for example.) Sometimes all the stores are just out of everything. And no one delivers to Guam!

However, I really came to love the reefs here and the whole underwater world. It’s been so much fun, and Rich has liked his job here on the USS Emory S. Land.

Jenifer DeLemont
Rich and I at Umatac Bay
Jenifer DeLemont
Just me scuba diving
Jenifer DeLemont
Hiking to waterfalls in the jungle
Jenifer DeLemont
A bite of dragon fruit, which grows here on Guam
Jenifer DeLemont
Tumon Bay where I live

And now we are off to Oahu. I have visited several times, since we need to go through Oahu to get anywhere from Guam. So far, I have really enjoyed it. I am terrified about buying a house there and finding a job. But, I know I’ll be able to do it.

Jenifer DeLemont
Me with a turtle in Oahu

Why is Coral Bleaching?

Gab Gab August 22nd, 2017

In my last post, I talked about the fact that coral around the world is bleaching. Today, I want to talk about why this is happening.

First I need to explain something from Geology.

It’s called the Milankovitch Warming Cycle, and it has been used as a dog whistle in oil company propaganda, as evidence that the current global climate change is “natural.”

Let’s look at the cycle in terms of atmospheric CO2.

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So, what exactly is the Milankovitch Warming Cycle?

Well, it describes the natural oscillation of the global climate since the formation of Earth. The global environment has varied in temperature in a natural cycle over hundreds of millions of years.

The key thing to know is that it happens very slowly.

When I say very slowly, you are probably thinking in human terms. I don’t mean in humans terms. I mean; it moves incredibly slowly in geologic time.

According to the natural cycle of our planet, it should take thousands of years for the temperature to change a fraction of a degree.

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So why does it matter how fast the Earth warms up? Won’t it just cool down as part of a natural cycle and then all the plants and animals will go back to normal?

In a word, no.

To understand why, we have to talk about how organisms evolve. You see, evolution happens when a gene mutates and causes a new trait to appear in a species. If that trait is beneficial, it will help the offspring who have it to outperform their counterparts without it. This helps that trait survive.

It’s easiest to see when we look at specific examples, so let’s have a look at polar bears. There were not always polar bears. But that species came into existence when, during an ice age, a bears’ genes mutated and caused the offspring to be white. The white bear did better than the others because it could hide in the snow, and so it was able to pass on its genes year after year.

Over time, that single genetic mutation became a new species. But again, the key to all of this is that it happens slowly over time.

Now that we understand how slowly the climate is supposed to change and how evolution works, you should be able to see how those two processes have worked together in tandem since the Earth was formed.

In the past, the climate changed slowly, and animals and plants adapted slowly.

Unfortunately, the climate is changing too fast now for any life forms to evolve with it. So when the zooxanthellae inside the coral die, and then the polyps die, that is it for coral.

Some species are hardier than other and so they will die in future bleaching events. However, we do know that all of them will die. The temperature is simply heating up too fast.

Gab Gab August 22nd, 2017

The mass extinction event that we are witnessing is part of The Holocene Extinction.

The oil companies try to tell you is that the Holocene extinction is perfectly natural and couldn’t be helped. This is 100% untrue. Man-made climate change is currently happening because of our use of fossil fuels, and the death of the coral reefs worldwide is absolutely our fault. The body of evidence is overwhelming. Science has no doubt on the matter.

And so, the answer to the question of “Why is the coral dying?” is really very simple.

The answer is us.

Gab Gab August 22nd, 2017

How Coral Bleaches

Healthy Coral

Above you can see a picture of healthy coral that has not been bleached. This picture was taken at Gab Gab Beach on Big Navy Base Guam, on April 21st, 2017.

Now then, last time I posted I talked about how coral is a living organism comprised of smaller organisms. These smaller organisms are called Polyps, and they are tiny animals. This is why you should never touch or stand on coral, because it crushes the tiny animals that it is made of.

This time, I want to talk about how coral bleaches.

First, remember that a coral is like an apartment complex. The building is made of calcium secreted by the coral, and the people who live inside are called polyps.

This is what a polyp looks like.

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As we discussed last time, a coral polyp can eat food from the water that it catches with its tentacles.

However, it is like a Venus Fly Trap: Even though a Venus Fly Trap eats flies, it still needs to absorb sunlight so that it’s chloroplasts can metabolize that light into food for the plant. Without sunlight, it would die.

The specialized chloroplast cells inside of a coral polyp are called zooxanthellae. Even though the coral is perfectly capable of catching food from the water with its tentacles, each polyp still needs its zooxanthellae to metabolize sunlight and produce a reliable food source for the polyp.

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The zooxanthellae are actually all different colors, and they are what gives coral its color. The polyps themselves are clear.

The problem is that the zooxanthellae are sensitive to temperature. If it gets too hot, the zooxanthellae will die. When they die, the polyp expels them into the water, and thus, it loses its color.

This is why coral that is bleached is not yet considered “dead.” The polyp is still alive, but it has lost its zooxanthellae.

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Rare cases have been reported where a coral bleached, but then the polyps were able to catch new algae cells and survive. However, the unfortunate truth is that once a coral bleaches, the polyps are very likely to starve to death and die.

Once the polyps die, the calcium skeleton is all that is left. This skeleton then becomes host to parasitic lifeforms that eventually break it down.

I moved to Guam is August of 2015. In the time that I have been here, I have seen the coral in Tumon Bay bleach and die, as well as the coral inside the reef at Tanguissen Beach.

Gab Gab August 22nd, 2017

However, those are shallow reefs. I understand how they got too hot and their coral began to bleach.

On the other hand, Gab Gab Reef on the Big Navy Base is much deeper. Most of the coral sits at around 20 feet deep, depending on the tide.

And rather than being in an enclosed reef the way the coral in Tumon Bay and Tanguissen is, the coral at Gab Gab is in a very deep harbor.

Gab Gab August 22nd, 2017

I never imagined that the coral at Gab Gab would bleach.

At least, not before I left here in September of 2018. And yet, the images that you are seeing now are from Gab Gab, and they were taken just a few months after the picture of healthy coral at the top of this post.

This is what bleached coral looks like. This is what a reef looks like when it is dying.

Gab Gab August 22nd, 2017

The reef at Gab Gab was truly amazing. It was filled with an incredible diversity of life, and a wide variety of corals. And now, before my eyes, it is dying.

I can’t really tell you the emotional toll of watching corals die.

I know that these are structures that took generations of polyps to build. Many are hundreds of years old. Gab Gab has so many huge, ancient corals that are each home to hundreds of fish.

Gab Gab August 22nd, 2017

It is an environment that took nature so many lifetimes to create. And yet, it is dying in the span of one Navy Man’s tour of duty on Guam. (My husband Rich.)

By the time the military sends my husband to a new port, I will have witnessed the loss of a huge percentage of the coral reefs on Guam. Just four years… and yet, I am seeing so much death.

There is no eulogy solemn enough or beautiful enough to pay tribute to the coral reefs of Guam. They were some of the most amazing things that I have ever seen, and I wish that I could express to you what a huge loss this is to every single one of us.

I am actually having trouble typing this because of the tears. And, if you were watching our oceans dry each day in real time, I have no doubt that you would feel the same.

There is no data yet on how big the 2017 world bleaching event will be. However, I would like to submit these photos to the world and to NOAA as evidence of the death in my small corner of the ocean.

Coral is Alive

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I don’t usually use this blog to educate people about science, but I am afraid that I feel it is necessary. So let’s take a moment to learn about coral, and what it is made out of.

Coral comprised of thousands of tiny animals called polyps.

Polyps are too small to see with the naked eye, but under a microscope you can see that a piece of coral is not a single entity. Rather; it is like an apartment complex.

A cooperative colony of polyps that all live together comprises what we think of as “a coral.”

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Inside the coral polyps are something called zooxanthellae.

Zooxanthellae are specialized chloroplasts that are able to take sunlight and metabolize it into food for the coral, the same way a chloroplast in vegetation absorbs sunlight and metabolizes it into food for its its plant host.

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Some corals also have tentacles that they stick out in order to try to catch bits of food that go by. However, all coral are dependent on their zooxanthellae for long-term survival.

You can think of a carnivorous plant like a Venus fly trap: it eats flies, but it will still die without the nutrients its chloroplasts make from sunlight.

This is why you must never touch coral. When you touch it or step on it, you are smashing hundreds of tiny polyps, and this does permanent damage to a coral. In fact, certain kinds of sunscreen are poisonous to coral, so you may even kill the entire colony just by being clumsy.

The lesson? Coral is a living organism made of many smaller living organism, and it’s not okay to touch it.

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