And where I’ve been – Page 6

Coral Bleaching at Gab Gab 9/2/17

Healthy coral has color to it. In the picture above, you can see healthy coral thriving at Gab Gab reef on May 2nd, 2017. This is what it is supposed to look like.

Unfortunately, the coral around the world is dying, and I want to talk about it for a moment.

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Coral is made up of many tiny animals called Polyps.

These little animals have specialized chloroplast cells inside called zooxanthellae. These chloroplasts absorb sunlight and convert it to food for the polyp. Without them, a polyp will die.

When the water temperature in an area gets too hot, the zooxanthellae stop being able to work. They are sensitive to temperature, and so they die.

When they die and the polyp pushes them out, the coral becomes white (since polyps have no color.) Eventually, the polyps die and the coral becomes nothing more than skeletons covered in algae.

The reefs on Guam are bleaching. This is part of a worldwide event, which is being driven by climate change.

I wanted to share these pictures and videos in an effort to draw attention to the fact that this is happening, and how awful it is.

These pictures are taken at Gab Gab, just like the one at the top of the page. The difference is only a few months, but the difference in the temperature in the water is extremely noticeable.

Before, it used to be a little chilly when you first got in. Gab Gab is a reef that goes from the surface water level down more than one hundred feet. Deeper water, in my experience, tends to be colder.

And yet, yesterday when I got in the water, it was hot.

I beg you all to take a very close look.

I think a lot of people who have never been snorkeling or diving are able to easily ignore the bleaching of the corals and the dying of the reefs.

For me, living here, it is much harder.

Coral are home to thousands of species of animals, and as they die, those animals will also die.

The diversity of life that we had in our oceans was amazing, and losing it is absolutely horrifying.

I have no words beautiful enough or sad enough to write the eulogy for our oceans. Nothing said or written could capture how beautiful this reef was just a few months ago.

Seeing the reef now as it bleaches and dies is one of the most painful things I have ever seen.

Mount Lam Lam

This hike varies in difficulty depending on the weather. If you go early enough in the morning and it is a windy day, this can be a very nice hike.

If the air is still and you wait until too late in the day, it’s murder.

Either way, bring a lot of sunscreen because there is very little shade.

Also, make sure to have mosquito repellent for any spots you make in the shade. If it has been rainy (and it usually is) you will see a lot of mosquitoes.

There are two tops to Mount Lam Lam, and there is some dispute as to which one is the “real” top.

On the right hand path, you will follow the stations of the cross up to one of the tops of the mountain. This has wonderful views of the ocean and many locals consider it the real top.

However, if you take the left hand path, you will get to the top of the mountain that is officially recognized as the top.

I have done both. The top with the crosses is a much shorter path because it goes straight up.

On the other hand, the surveyors top takes you down into the jungle, and then back up along a poorly marked trial until at last you climb the rocks to the marker.

It’s a beautiful view from either spot, and I recommend doing both (though maybe not in the same day.)

If you are Catholic, you might appreciate the little shrine about halfway up before the trail splits off.

Definitely take some time to enjoy the ground orchids, passion vines, and other beautiful plants.

On an amusing side note: The locals consider Mount Lam Lam to be the tallest mountain in the world because they measure from the bottom of the Marianas Trench to the top of the peak.

Therefore, if you climb Mount Lam Lam, you can amuse your friends by saying you climbed the tallest mountain in the world.

Tarzan Falls Hike

Off route 16, there is a trail head for Tarzan Falls. Once you park in the lot by the windmill, you start your hike.

There are a lot of trails, but all of them go down to the falls.

I recommend taking the trails to the left, because they are drier.

If you go to the right, you’ll be on trails mostly used for ATVs and other vehicles. That makes deep ruts which fill with water.

Either way, you’ll get down to the top of the falls.

The first set are very pretty, and also small. Usually there are a lot of people at the top, so you should be able to get someone to take your picture. This is our hiking group!

When you follow the posted sign and climb down, you’ll see the largest of the falls.

Make sure you have good hiking boots, because there is a lot of mud.

Also, be sure to wear plenty of sunscreen.

There is a swimming hole, so bring a bathing suit if you want to swim.

If you plan to go onto the rocks, use caution because they are very slippery.

There is a rope swing on the left side of the pool for swinging into the water, but again, be cautious of the rocks.

After you see the big falls, head downstream along the smaller trail.

There are two more sets of waterfalls that you can get to.

I recommend bringing snacks, so that you can eat when you get down to the end of the trail.

There are lots of good spots to swim or wade. There aren’t many fish, but you may see tadpoles or fresh water shrimp.

The hike is only 1.4 miles total, but bring lots of water. It’s a long and difficult hike back up.

This is one of the easier hikes on Guam, so it’s excellent for beginners.

Pagat Cave and Marbo Cave

Visiting some limestone caves is always a fun idea. Neither Pagat Cave or Marbo Cave are seeping, so you won’t see a lot of cool stalagmites and stalactites. However, you will see beautiful fresh water pools for swimming.

Let’s start with Marbo Cave (see link for directions):

It’s a short hike so you don’t need much more than a liter of water and a bathing suit. We brought snacks because we wanted to have a picnic in the cave, but if you’re just going to see it you don’t need to bring much.

Follow the trail down, and the cave is right there at the bottom. You don’t need a flashlight because it is well lit from the surface (the opening is large.) There’s two swimming spots, one easy to get to and one that you climb over slippery rocks to get to. Both are cool, fresh water.

Warning: There are two places where you can swim under rock into a tunnel. Don’t do this! Several people have drowned in the cave after trying to do this.

After you enjoy the cave, turn back if you like. Or, continue on the trail until you get to the cliffs. The view is very nice. Make sure you bring sunscreen if you want to walk out to the cliffs. It’s not a long walk, but it’s hot and sunny.

Next up: Pagat Cave (follow the link for directions):

This is a much more difficult hike. You will need at least two liters of water and a snack. In addition, you need: Water shoes, a bathing suit, a flashlight, bug spray, sunscreen, and gloves. I recommend a waterproof camera as well, because you don’t want to lose your footing and get you camera wet unless it’s meant to be in water.

The trail is flat in some places, but mostly it is very steep. There are ropes in places to hold while you descend, so keep your gloves on.

At the bottom, you’ll see a hole in the rock to your left. It doesn’t look like much, but that’s the way in.

Hold the rope and walk carefully down. When you get to the bottom, change into your bathing suit and water shoes, and store your pack along the side of the trail.

Walk through the first pool, which is only ankle deep, and proceed through the small hole into the large cavern beyond.

If you wear glasses, you might get used to hiking with your prescription sunglasses on and leaving your regular pair in the car.

However, once you enter the second cavern it is completely dark and you will need a flashlight and glasses to see anything.

I was completely unprepared, as I thought it was a little cave like Marbo. Now I know better, and can go back dressed properly and with the right glasses.

There are no tunnels or side caverns so you won’t get lost. The only danger is if there is a flash flood, so check the weather and don’t go on a day when there is a lot of rain expected.

And don’t forget to reapply sunscreen and bug spray before you start the long trek back to your car.

Hamamoto Fruit World

Hamamoto Fruit World is a tourist attraction on the island of Guam.

It’s really geared towards Japanese tourists, but anyone is welcome.

I am a real lover of plants, and I thought it was exciting to get the chance to learn more about the plants that live on the equator.

The park it basically a long, looping road.

You can use your own car, or you can take the park shuttle.

I recommend taking your own car. That way you can take as long as you want to see things.

We actually ended up stopping and getting out of the car a lot, so we could have a closer look at the plants.

In particular the coffee plants (above) were fascinating to my husband. He loves coffee.

Of course, I like the agave, since that is what is used to make tequila.

The park is located off route 16, and the road there is a little rough.

Once you get there, you can enjoy the small garden before doing the looping drive.

Also, there are places to take picture with the very of the center of the island.

You will see all kinds of flowers, bushes, and trees.

My favorite is the ginger. The plants are beautiful, and they come in red, pink, and white.

Ginger is used as a spice, but it can also be used in tea.

Some of the best fruit on Guam is the Dragon Fruit and Mango, but we also have star fruit and other exciting things you don’t find outside the tropics.

Hamamoto fruit world is a wonderful place to see what kind of plants live in “Zone Nine,” or the equator.

We also have pineapple, wax apple, herbs for tea, and all sorts of other exciting things.

Remember sunscreen, since there are places to get out and walk.

When you pay, you will get a small information packet so you can identify the fruits.

It was $3 per person to tour the place, so it’s certainly the most affordable thing to do on Guam.

It’s fun trying to figure out what plant goes with what picture.

Some I had seen before. For example, coconuts and bread fruit grow all over the island.

Other plants, like the sugar apples, were new to me.

Before you leave, be sure to stop at the gift shop.

They make their own honey, Popsicles, and other products from the fruits in the park.

Plan on spending about an hour there, although you could spend all day if you really like plants!

Inarajan Falls

The town of Inarajan is most famous for a set of pools fed by ocean water that are good for swimming, and also some nice views.

Malojoj Falls is more of a hidden gem. You drive up to the middle school, and park outside the fence. There’s a road into the jungle, and you follow it out of the trees and into the open plains.

The red dirt is pretty and the tall grass is full of ground orchids.

You can even find passion flowers at the right time of year.

If you follow the trail, it will take you over a stream and into a bamboo forest.

Keep going down hill, and you’ll come to the falls. I recommend bringing gloves, because there are ropes you need to hold to get down the steep parts.

The falls are bigger after the rainy season, but they are nice any time of year.

There is a set of smaller waterfalls when you first come down the slope, and then if you go upstream, you’ll see a taller waterfall.

There’s a nice little spot to sit and listen to the water, and there is even a hammock (above you can see my husband laying in it.)

The owner of the land is fine with people visiting, as long as they clean up their trash. Make sure you pick up after yourself. If you sit and relax for awhile, you will see butterflies come up to drink from the lower falls, and to eat from the flowers that are planted all around. It’s a really nice place to spend an afternoon.

Again, make sure to bring lots of sunscreen and water! Wear plants because some of the plants have thorns, and definitely A hat for crossing the sunny plains.

Green Sea Turtle

There is a green sea turtle that lives at Fish Eye Marine Park on the island of Guam. We call him Larry, but I have no idea what he calls himself.

Anyway, he is tagged, and I am wondering if anyone on the Internet would happen to know how to look up information on a turtle based on the tag. His number seems to be “PI2775.”

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He has a pretty bad injury from what seems to be a boat propeller. His shell is broken in places, and one of his back fins is split in half. These injuries are healed, but the scars are permanent.

He is extremely friendly and seems to really love people, so I think he is from a hatchery or a rescue. If he was born in the wild, I don’t think he would be so excited about people.

So, does anyone know how I might find out more?

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Ocean Views From Guam

I thought some of you might like to see pictures of the ocean from my time in Guam, so here are a few of the best.

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Seven.

Eight.

Nine.

Ten.

Eleven.

Twelve.

Thirteen.

Fourteen.

Fifteen.

Sixteen.

Seventeen.

Eighteen.

Nineteen.

Twenty.

Twenty One.

Twenty Two.

Twenty Three.

Twenty Four.

Twenty Five.

Twenty Six.

Twenty Seven.

Twenty Eight.

Twenty Nine.

Thirty.

Thirty One.

Thirty Two.

Thirty Three.

Thirty Four.

Thirty Five.

Thirty Sex.

Thirty Seven.

Thirty Eight.

Thirty Nine.

Forty.

Tropical Sunsets

Guam might not have clubs or a lot of job opportunities, but it does have beautiful sunsets. I could post a picture every few days, but it seemed better to put all the sunsets in one Gratuitous Sunset Post.

So here is that post. Please enjoy forty sunsets from me to you.

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Four.

Five.

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Seven.

Eight.

Nine.

Ten.

Eleven.

Twelve.

Thirteen.

Fourteen.

Fifteen.

Sixteen.

Seventeen.

Eighteen.

Nineteen.

Twenty.

Twenty One.

Twenty Two.

Twenty Three.

Twenty Four.

Twenty Five.

Twenty Six.

Twenty Seven.

Twenty Eight.

Twenty Nine.

Thirty.

Thirty One.

Thirty Two.

Thirty Three.

Thirty Four.

Thirty Five.

Thirty Six.

Thirty Seven.

Thirty Eight.

Thirty Nine.

Forty.

Forty One.

It turns out that Forty is the maximum amount of photos that this format allows me in one post, so there will definitely be a part two.

These were taken all over the island, but mostly at various spots in Tumon Bay (where I live.)

Talofofo Park and Falls

You can’t see Talofofo Falls unless you pay to get in to Talofofo Park. The admission price is steep; it’s $20 per person. I want to say it’s worth it, but it’s not much of a park.

There is a very small garden of “sexy” statues which is sort of like LoveLand in Jeju, but much smaller and closer together.

I don’t like to be negative, but if I am honest, it’s a really small area with a few very generic statues. It doesn’t add much to the park.

There is a very small haunted house under the cable car entrance. In the style of haunted houses worldwide, it has a few things that pop out at you.

When you finish walking through the haunted house, you can go up to the cable car. Take it over the waterfall, and down to the trail head that lets you walk down below the waterfall.

After that, you can walk over a bridge to the side of the pool. At the top of the stairs, you go up and are faced with two choices:

1. You can walk straight and go into a “museum” full of dioramas depicting the Japanese occupation and the US occupation. It’s very small and not historically accurate, but I suppose it’s good for a laugh.

2. You can head left and walk down a long path to see a reproduction of Shoicho Yokoi’s Cave. Really, it’s just some bamboo lashed together and a hole in the ground (which you cant get close to.) The most interesting part is the shrine next to the “cave,” where Japanese tourists leave coins and gifts.

It’s not that there isn’t a lot to see. There is a lot of walking and you should bring plenty of water and maybe a snack. The park definitely covers a large area.

It’s just that all the attractions are sort of cheesy and second-rate, so you walk away feeling disappointed even though you have seen a lot of things.

I went with my friend Mel, who had just finished a tour of North Korea with a Chinese tour company. As she put it “There are better amusement parks in North Korea.”

If you like cheesy though; this is your thing. Neil Gaimen said in American Gods that roadside attractions are the best part of America. If you are the sort of person who would be excited to see the world’s largest ball of twine or a giant frying pan, then you will probably enjoy Talofofo Park.

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